The Haute-Marne department makes for an easy day trip or fun overnight from Paris. During my trip, I had the opportunity to taste new wines and discover so much of what the area has to offer. I wanted to create a little guide here for you to use to explore too! The Haute-Marne, a department of France located on its eastern edge between Champagne and Burgundy. A.K.A my perfect crossroad. No wonder I fell in love!
The Haute-Marne offers something for everyone- the nature lover, the explorer, the history nerd, and especially wine lovers and foodies. I was lucky enough to dip my feet into a little of everything in just two days. Colombey-les-Deux-Églises is one of the vineyards on the Route Touristique du of the Côte des Bar, a tour that allows you to discover the richness of the vineyards by numerous signposted road circuits through the vines all under the “Champagne” appellation.
How to get there:
The biggest city in this department is Chaumont. The train goes directly from Gare l’est and takes about 2 hours. Make sure to take in the landscapes along the way. The lush green forests through the windows are a prelude to what the region offers. Make sure to bring along your journal and tasting notebook.
What to see and do:
Truffles!
First stop was Domain des Chenes à Semoutiers. It was here that I was introduced and participated in a truffle conference led by Damien Breugnon, a Forestier who arrived in the department in 2012. His work is revered by the National Parks administration of France. During the presentation, he took me through the lifecycle and explained in detail the ecological factors that go into maintaining balance and healthy conditions for truffle growth. Limestone soils don’t just produce beautiful expressions of Pinot Noir, my friends. They also supply particular nutrients necessary in developing the complex flavors of Bourgogne truffles.
The domain itself is at the doors of the National Park. It was founded by Phillipe and Isabelle Devilliers who spent the last several years converting to organic land and farming the coveted Bourgogne truffle. Even though this truffle was historically the only one allowed on the tables of the kings of France for centuries, it went into oblivion until recently. Over the last 20 years, new plantings and dedication by passionate farmers and foresters, like Damien Breugnon and the Devilliers, have brought it back. Lucky for us!
I was delighted by the recipes prepared by Isabelle for our lunch. Each dish was a carefully curated expression of truffle.
We started with oeuf cocotte with foie gras, truffle, and parsley then moved on to truffle cream chicken tagliatelle. Needless to say, I was spoiled.
You can book a group lunch and truffle demonstration at their property by contacting them directly. Make sure to say hello to their truffle dog, Orka, for me.
History
Next stop is Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises, which is home to General Charles du Gaulle. I was greeted by Pascal Babouot, the Major and chevalier de la Légion d’honneur. His emotional account of General de Gaulle’s role in the resistance and the crucial function the department had during World War II was moving. A reminder that looking back into history can help us shape our future.
Visiting the memorial site is a must. Try to time it 1-2 hours before closing so you can take in the view and capture the sunset over the breathtaking landscape.
Wine
Located a few kilometers from Colombey, the villages of Argentolles and Rizaucourt are the starting points of the Champagne tourist route. The vineyards of Haute-Marne cover 80 hectares, with a majority of pinot noir production. Thus, why I suggest you go visit!
During my trip, I had the opportunity to visit three different grower-producers. What struck me most was that at each domain a young woman was leading the
cave. It demonstrates the ongoing changes in the roles that women are playing particularly in Champagne. I think it is important to note this as we move forward with the changes in the world.
Champagne Peligri in Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises
Founded by Sylvie and Christian, second-generation winemakers who bought an old butter factory in 1988 and turned it into the domain it is now. Their third generation is already beginning to take root in keeping the tradition. Laure, the youngest of three sisters all of whom studied winemaking, led the tasting.
Champagne Nicolas Bass in Rizaucourt
I was so awed by the view at this property overlooking the village on the hillside, I visited here on my last day in the department. It is truly stunning!
Champagne Daubanton in Rizaucourt
The producer to watch! The winemaking is now being led by their 23-year old daughter, Amélie, and her brother. She is a recent oenology school graduate. The Prestige cuvee is mind-blowing. The wine is paired with the main course at the Hostellerie La Montagne. We toured the cave with Amélie. She explained in detail her recent process of producing a new sparkling rose with saignée method.
Food
Hostellerie La Montagne: Chef Jean-Baptiste Natali is one of the youngest chefs to earn a Michelin star and his restaurant in Chaource has been awarded two. It was truly an honor meeting him and discussing the pairings. The restaurant is located in Colombey-les-Deux-Elises making it the perfect ending to the visit to the memorial. Make sure to book this in advance.
Where to stay:
If you don’t want to overnight this is an easy enough day trip to hop back on the train to Paris. However, I did elect to stay overnight in a hotel in Chaumont. It made it easier to schedule tasting visits in the morning and ensure I had enough time to relax. I prefer to ease into the day if I can.
