The Bordeaux wine region, steeped in centuries of tradition and prestige, is experiencing a revolution. The catalyst of this transformation comes not from external pressures, but from within, spurred by a group of daring vintners calling themselves the “Vignerons Bordeaux Pirate” (Bordeaux Pirate Winemakers). Formed in September 2022 following the success of a Facebook group of the same name, the association aims to highlight winemakers and merchants in Bordeaux who dare to present personal, high-quality cuvées that break away from the stereotypical image often associated with Bordeaux wines.
These Bordeaux Pirates promote a diversity of styles, even if that means “playing outside the walls” and disregarding local conventions. The initiative, spearheaded by Laurent Cassy (Château Chillac), Laurent David (Château Edmus), Fabien Lapeyre (Château La Peyre), and Jean-Baptiste Duquesne (Château Cazebonne), was actualized last year following the popularity of the Facebook page “Bordeaux Pirate, wines off the beaten track.” The aim now is to establish a visible label for consumers, heralding a new era of innovation in winemaking that transcends traditional boundaries.
The Bordeaux Pirates represent a significant shift in the winemaking scene of Bordeaux. By taking risks, challenging the status quo, and embracing the unconventional, they’re bringing forth a new identity for Bordeaux wines that blends respect for tradition with a thirst for innovation. Their cuvées are not merely wines; they are bold statements and manifestos in liquid form, a testament to the creative potential of winemaking when unbound by convention.
In November, a jury of professionals from all walks of life convened to taste 79 cuvées presented by the winemakers. Each bottle offered its own surprises, from historical or exotic grape varieties to unusual vinifications and creative aging. Two scores were awarded to each wine: one for organoleptic quality, and another for the “pirate potential” of the cuvée. In the end, 52 cuvées were granted the Pirate grade. Remarkably, all the wines put forth were either organically certified or in the process of conversion.
“Organoleptic” refers to the aspects of food, water, or other substances that an individual experiences via the senses, including taste, sight, smell, and touch.
This movement, however, is not a rebellion for the sake of rebellion. The Bordeaux Pirates understand the importance of maintaining quality while pushing boundaries. The wines that have been granted the Pirate grade are judged not only on their innovative elements but also on their sensorial quality. This dual focus ensures that the wines remain enjoyable and high-quality while also being refreshingly different.
The Bordeaux Pirates’ commitment to organic and sustainable practices further underscores their dedication to quality and responsibility. Again, all wines bearing the Pirate label are either certified organic or in the process of conversion, demonstrating a commitment to environmental stewardship and sustainable viticulture. This approach aligns with a global trend towards more sustainable and conscientious winemaking practices.
One standout estate within this movement is the Clos du Notaire, helmed by winemakers Amélie Osmond and Victor Mischler. Situated on the grounds of a former 14th-century abbey, Clos du Notaire is no stranger to history. The estate was mentioned in the 1874 edition of the FERET wine directory as a second cru bourgeois and first cru artisan. Located in the Côtes de Bourg region, Clos du Notaire has garnered attention for its remarkable 100% Malbec wine aged in amphorae, a testament to the innovative spirit of its winemakers. This approach showcases a unique and fresh perspective on a classic Bordeaux grape variety, a truly “pirate” attitude in the face of tradition.
Of particular note are two cuvées from Clos du Notaire, “L’Usufruit” and “iconoKlaste,” both 2021 vintages, which exemplify the winemakers’ dedication to quality and innovation.
The winemaking approach of Clos du Notaire, led by Amélie Osmond and Victor Mischler, serves as a remarkable example of the Bordeaux Pirates’ philosophy. Their innovation in the craft, particularly evident in their unique 100% Malbec wine aged in amphorae, boldly diverges from traditional methods while simultaneously upholding a profound reverence for the vineyard and nature. This dedication to novelty is mirrored in their exclusive cuvées, now a part of the Murielle Claudel wine portfolio for distribution in the export market. They truly epitomize the distinct and innovative approach to winemaking championed by the Bordeaux Pirates.
The Bordeaux Pirates are more than just a group of winemakers; they are a symbol of change and innovation in a region known for its deep-rooted traditions. By pushing boundaries and challenging the status quo, they are redefining what Bordeaux wine can be and paving the way for a new generation of winemakers. Their efforts promise a future for Bordeaux that is as rich and diverse as the region’s storied past. And in the process, they invite us all to experience Bordeaux wines anew, to savor their distinct personalities, and to join them on this exciting voyage into uncharted territory.
great stuff