I discovered a new variety! Have you heard of Damas Noir? Don’t worry, I hadn’t either until last weekend.
It is an indigenous French grape with the characters of Syrah but much more light-bodied. It reminded me of Nebbiolo. Think black pepper spice with red and black fruit, yet delicate.
I fell into #winenerd rabbit hole researching this one. My interest in ancient French varieties had developed a lot over the last few months. The impact of climate change and looking at historical reports of ancient grapes as an option has come up in more than one conversation recently.
It is native to Auvergne and virtually disappeared due to phylloxera. But two stocks were spared from the disease and later discovered at the beginning of the 20th in the Puy-de-Dôme. The vines were entrusted to a local wine nurseryman who multiplied them in Châteaugay. This story grabbed winemaker, Pierre Goigoux and since 2011 he has been trying to reintroduce it in his vineyard in Châteaugay. In 2014, the Damas Noir officially reappeared for its first vintage since the 19th century.
The plot is only 1/2 hectare. The vines grow on the southernmost slopes at an altitude of 400m and are rooted in clay-limestone soils of the volcanic piedmont. Remember, I told you to think Nebbiolo?
To add another dose of mystique, Pierre Goigoux chose to evoke a literary reference to one of the most prolific unsolved cases in American Crime history: So who killed the black damask (Dalhia)? The wine is labeled in black, white, and red paying homage to the 1930’s newspaper headlines and gumshoe detective work.
The harvest is manual. Then gentle vatting as to not extract overly rustic tannins. Thus fruit is forward. Pair this one with cherry tomatoes, freshly sliced ham, and cold pasta.
It is classified as IGP. Want to try it? Here is how.
Sit on a Parisienne terrace and share a bottle at one of my neighborhood spots on Canal Saint-Martin the 10e, Les Enfants Perdus.
Or you can purchase a couple of bottles from my new favorite Female Founded cave in the 3e Trois Fois Vin.
