Athens Guide: Best Tips for Off-Season Travels

Athens is a layered vibrant city. Just like the history books written about Athens, it is dense and full of discoveries for travelers and locals alike. I spent three weeks exploring urban life, ancient sites, and new wines all while working remotely. I chose to do this in the off season and while it made others pause, I am glad I did for several reasons.

First is cost. It was almost a fourth of the cost of visiting in the summertime. Second is space. I had most of the historical sites and museums to myself. There were no crowds, lines or buses full of tourists. I felt less like a tourist and more like a visitor. I had the opportunity to meet more locals and get a lay of the land.

(Note: I took two days to travel to Peloponnese and Attica to visit producers, but want to share that in another post. If you get the newsletter, there are some great wine picks from Greece this month. Make sure to subscribe.)

So, if you’re looking for a wine escape that won’t break the bank, Athens is your perfect destination. The city is filled with charming wine bars, ancient wine history and gastronomic experiences with professionals who are always happy to share their knowledge and latest finds. Even better: many of Athens’ best spots are tucked away in quiet neighborhoods, so you can explore without the crowds.

Read on for our guide to the best off-season wine centered experiences in Athens!

Where to Stay

Before going I did some neighborhood research. I didn’t want to be in a touristy part of town, but I wanted to be central. I chose the Koukaki neighborhood and have absolutely no regrets.

The Plaka is a 10 min walk and Monastiraki is 20 mins on foot where you will find most of the ancient sites and museums. Koukaki was authentic and the mix I was looking for.

These are my two Airbnbs: Koukaki one bedroom + Koukai / Plaka one bedroom with rooftop

Next time I go I might elect to stay in Exarcheia because I like the alternative, artist vibe there. I realize Exarhia maybe grittier then some might like. I am a sucker for bookstores and Exarcheia is the bookstore mecca of Athens. More on that later.

Let’s get to the lists!

Where to Eat

Lolos: My local spot Koukaki, a hidden gem and must when in Athens. I am not going to lie, I ate here several times because it is finger-licking delicious. Fresh seafood, authentic Greek cuisine and criminally affordable. The portions are generous. If you are eating alone, ask them to pack up your leftovers to eat later. I did!

To Kati Allo: Small, simple, family-owned “taverna” offering traditional and local Greek home-style cooking. The menu changes daily and is written on the blackboard outside. Just steps from the Acropolis museum. Lamb and other meat are all roasted on a spit and freshly prepared. A little gem amongst a wide selection of restaurants lining the street.

Bite Box: The warm atmosphere of this spot makes you feel relaxed. The Bite Box hides a special, delicious secret, called a poffie! What is it? Small bites of handmade, buttery dough that arrive at your table warm and in dozens of delicious combinations to send you to Paradise. Both sweet and savory versions, poffies are a different and fun new approach to the idea of brunch in Athens.

Morning Bar: My local coffee spot. A big glass windowed space on a corner in Koukaki. In addition to good coffee, you can try fresh eggs, perfect cinnamon rolls, bread cakes and cookies in various versions. All simple and tasty and made in front of you. Fun Fact: It was founded by the fashion brand “WITH THEY” who moved to their basement space and opened a “bar for morning types”.

Where to Taste

Tanini Agapi Mou: Located in the Exarcheia neighborhood, this wine bar was founded by Stergios Tekeridis. The selection is vast, well curated, with a focus on sustainable Greek wines and ancient varieties. I was lucky enough to get connected with Georgio, a sommelier working at Tanini Agapi Mou. My evening spent tasting in what feels like an urban geek house is one of the most memorable parts of the entire trip. Just when you think it can’t get much better they bring out cheese plates which are all fresh and locally sourced. Look for these ancient and lesser known varieties: PLITO, SIDERITIS, MAVROUDI, ASPRO POTAMISI, MAVRO KALAVRYTINO and AGGRIPIOTIS

Address: Ippokratous 91 Exarcheia, 106 80

By The Glass: The chic upscale option on my list. With an extensive wine list, By the Glass offers a unique opportunity to taste some of the best wines from Greece and around the world. This was one of the recommendations from Jancis Robinson. I enjoyed the romantic vibe and modern Greek / French fusion concept.

Address: Souri 3, Athina 105 57, Greece

Heteroclito: This wine bar is a favorite for many Athenians. It’s small and intimate with an ever-changing wine list. You will find more than 200 Greek labels in the list of Heteroclito, with emphasis on wines with mild methods of cultivation and winemaking (natural and biodynamic wines)

Address: Mitropoleos 31, Athina 106 78

Wine Point: This charming wine bar is tucked away in a quiet corner of the Plaka neighborhood. The owner is passionate about wine and has curated a selection of bottles from all over Greece. This bar is worth a visit for the experience and education alone. The staff is incredibly kind and eager to share their insights. 10 minutes from major archeological sites, this bar hits the spot after a long day. Fresh meat and cheese plates to order. Plus every glass of wine is served with a small cheese plate at no extra cost.

Address: Porinou 2, Athina 117 42, Greece

What to do

Food Tour of the Central Market with Julia: Stroll through the stall, flee market and explore the shops while tasting fresh ingredients. You’ll meet Julia’s old friends in the Central Market, Athens oldest vegetable, fish and meat market.

Take a Cooking Class at Greek Kitchen Athens: One of the highlights for me was taking a cooking class next to the central market. It was a 4 hour class that included traditional recipes all with historical explanation. Dolmades: delicious vine leaves wrapped around herb-infused rice, Spanakopita: Spinach pies with a touch of creamy, salty feta all wrapped up in pastry. Tzatziki: This is the accompaniment to many Greek dishes. A classic Greek yogurt infused with garlic, cucumber and herbs. Imam Baildi: when traveling back from Asia Minor, Greek refugees developed this dish of roasted eggplants that are topped with a rich sauce and feta cheese. Portokalopita: An all time favorite for many Greeks, this sticky, soft orange “pie” is made from phyllo pastry, oranges and cinnamon.

Treat yourself to the best Spa in the city: I had the best facial of my life at the Apivita Experience HIVE spa.
Hike up the Philopappos Hill: Along the way you pass two caves known as the Prison of Socrates. Still considered a legend, in reality the cave held the remains from an ancient residency that were mistakenly identified as those where the famous philosopher talked before his execution.

Visit Museums! Make time for the NEW acropolis museum. It is very well done.
Explore the Off the Beaten Path Neighborhoods: Monastiraki, Kolonaki, Exarhia, Kypseli and Anafiotika

Visit an Herbalist: Daphnis and Chloe is a culinary herb and spice company dedicated to cooks who are looking for Mediterranean ingredients of the finest quality. Their studio is located in a quiet corner of central Athens, in the neighborhood of Neos Kosmos. You can taste their complete range and purchase your herbs directly from the source. I packed a bunch to bring back with me!

What to see

The Ancient Wonders: Acropolis, Agora, Temple of Zeus. When you buy the 30 euro ticket, it’s good for 4-5 days. You can see most of the ancient sites. Some were more exciting than others, but each site gave me a deeper sense of the city’s history and connection to the Ancient civilization.

Helpful Tips

Transportation

Most the cabs in Athens are connected to Uber and you can get around the city center for less than 5 euros a ride. Keep in mind the city is extremely walkable and the subways are easy to use too. Cabs to and from the airport run 35-40 euros.

Language

Most Greeks speak excellent English, but if you know a few Greek phrases your experience will be ten times better. You will be met with lots of warmth from Athenians. I made a point to learn the basics: Hello, Thank you, Coffee Please, Good evening, basic wine vocab… this changed the game.