If you’re a lover of food, wine, and culture, the Jura region in eastern France and its neighboring Swiss valleys should be on your radar. Often overlooked for flashier destinations, this area is a treasure trove of flavors, traditions, and landscapes—and it’s the birthplace of absinthe. La Route de l’Absinthe takes you through idyllic towns, lush countryside, and centuries of history, offering a journey that’s as much about discovery as it is about indulgence.
I first explored this route in the dead of winter. It was cold, snowy, and enchanting—but if I could pick again, I’d choose autumn. The crisp air and golden foliage feel perfectly suited to the spirit’s mystique. Whether you’re coming from Paris, Lyon, or Geneva, this trip is an easy escape into the heartland of the green fairy.
Starting Point: Pontarlier, France
Pontarlier is the gateway to La Route de l’Absinthe and the self-proclaimed “Capital of Absinthe.” This charming Jura town, nestled in the mountains, was once the epicenter of absinthe production. Renting a car here is a must if you want to explore the route fully and at your own pace.
What to See and Do:
- Distillery Armand GUY: One of the oldest and most renowned distilleries in the region. They craft absinthe using recipes passed down through generations, blending tradition with expertise. Tours are available in English, French, and German.
- Musée de l’Absinthe: This museum dives into absinthe’s rich history, from its medicinal beginnings to its golden age in Belle Époque Paris. It’s a must-visit for context and inspiration.
- Local Markets: Pontarlier’s markets are a feast for the senses, offering everything from Comté cheese to pastries—perfect companions for your absinthe tastings.
Travel Tip: Getting to Pontarlier is straightforward. From Paris, Lyon, or Geneva, take a train via the SNCF website (avoid third-party rail sites) and rent a car upon arrival. This gives you the freedom to explore the route at your own pace.
Crossing into Switzerland: Val-de-Travers
Just a short drive from Pontarlier lies Val-de-Travers, Switzerland’s absinthe heartland. This region is as picturesque as it is historic, with its verdant valleys and alpine views. Each stop here reveals another layer of absinthe’s story.
Key Stops:
- Maison de l’Absinthe (Absinthe House): Located in Môtiers, this museum is both educational and sensory. Explore interactive exhibits and finish with a guided absinthe tasting.
- DistAB Distillery in Couvet: A visit here feels like stepping into another world. Nicolas Stauffer, a fourth-generation distiller, shares tales of his family’s bootlegging past. If you’re lucky, Nicolas might invite you upstairs through a hidden trapdoor to the attic, where the original pharmacy’s apothecary jars and tools transport you back in time.
Don’t Miss: The ritual of absinthe preparation—slowly dripping ice water over a sugar cube on a slotted spoon. It’s a sensory experience that captures the essence of the green fairy.
Practical Tips for Travelers
- Best Time to Visit: Autumn is ideal, with its crisp air and vibrant foliage. Winter can be magical but requires braving the cold and snow.
- Getting Around: Rent a car in Pontarlier for maximum flexibility. Public transport is limited, and you’ll want the freedom to explore hidden gems.
- Language Note: English is spoken at larger distilleries like Armand GUY, but smaller producers may only speak French. Brush up on your basic French—it’s part of the adventure.
- Where to Stay: Look for family-run guesthouses in Pontarlier or Môtiers. These cozy accommodations often come with local tips and homemade breakfasts.
- Local Specialties: Jura is a cheese lover’s paradise. Don’t miss Comté, Mont d’Or, or a bubbling pot of fondue. Pair them with a glass of absinthe or a local wine for a perfect meal.
- Hidden Gems: Small shops along the route might seem kitschy, but take a moment to explore. You’ll find unique souvenirs and local treasures.
Absinthe Culture Today
Absinthe isn’t just a drink here; it’s a commitment to reviving heritage. Along the route, you’ll encounter distillers who have dedicated their lives to preserving its traditions, chefs who incorporate its flavors into their dishes, and communities that celebrate its heritage with pride. Festivals, tastings, and workshops make it easy to immerse yourself in this vibrant culture.
La Route de l’Absinthe is more than a journey; it’s a celebration of food, drink, and tradition. The Jura and Val-de-Travers regions offer a rare combination of natural beauty, culinary excellence, and historical depth that will enchant any traveler. As you explore these winding roads, you’ll come to understand why absinthe has captivated hearts and minds for centuries.
If you haven’t already, check out my first post in this series to learn about absinthe’s fascinating history. Together, these articles offer a complete picture of a spirit that’s far more than a drink—it’s a journey into the soul of a region.
📌 Plan Your Dream Trip Interested in exploring Burgundy or creating your own wine, culture and food-focused itinerary? I offer personalized trip planning and unique wine experiences in the region. Let’s create something bespoke and unforgettable. Contact me here for details!
